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Re: SoloPiAmp

Postby gEnEsis_AiX » 19 Oct 2014, 16:52

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Joined: 16 Oct 2014, 08:46

Re: SoloPiAmp

Postby skrodahl » 19 Oct 2014, 22:02

Hi from Trøndelag, although I live in Sweden now.

The power button in the previous post is perfect. If you choose another one, make sure it's the latching type and not momentary. Also consider if you really want the blue LED. It might look nice, but I bet you will get tired of it after a while. I have used orange for mine, it is much less disturbing.

I use this button. The LED is for 12V, so you have to use a 500-1000 ohm resistor to limit the current to the LED. (More info about LEDs and resistors.)

For power and loudspeaker connections, you will not need shielded cables. If you can get to Biltema, these cables will do just fine: ... ng-353833/. Get black and red cables.

Use 1.5 mm2 for power connections and 2.5 mm2 for the speaker connections. If the cable fits, use 2.5 mm2 everywhere.

To avoid wiring mistakes, always use red for positive and black for negative. Twisting the wires will give sufficient shielding, see this picture:

IMG_20140930_1853131.jpeg (201.52 KiB) Viewed 1732 times

For audio connections, you'll want a shielded audio cable. It has two cable leads (red and black) and a shield. It's often called a microphone cable like this one at eBay: ... 2ed78c05d3. Five meters will give you a huge supply of internal audio interconnects.

There are a couple of ways to use this cable.

* One cable for two channels: Red is right and black is left. Use the shield as ground for both right and left channels.
* One cable for one channel: Red is positive and black is ground. Connect the black cable and the shield together.

Do not connect the two negative speaker outputs to each other. It will only end in tears. The amplifier outputs are BTL (bridge tied load) which means that they don't have common ground.

Get some spacers as well, if you haven't already thought of that. You don't want to place the circuit boards directly on the bottom plate of your case, that will just create short circuits. These are the ones I'm talking about:


5mm M3 spacers, screws and nuts are best suited for both the amplifier board and the Raspberry Pi. Here's some I found on eBay, with the nuts: ... 416e8f26b9.

You also need screws to go with the spacers, like these: ... 3cce8b2622

Muffsy Phono Preamp PP-3 || Audiobah TPA3116 || ESP P88 || ProJect Debut Carbon Espirit DC || RuneAudio / RaspBerry Pi / HifiBerry DAC || Dynaco A25
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Joined: 27 Jan 2014, 10:08
Location: Sweden

Re: SoloPiAmp

Postby gEnEsis_AiX » 24 Oct 2014, 08:36

Arrait! Then most of the stuff is on its way to Norway, amp, psu and some other stuffs.

What i miss is :
    - Dac! I thought i would do a HifiBerry - but is there other smarter choises (on price?)
      - i need a I2S dac, but can i still connect a 3,7" touch lcd even if i use a ex. hifiberry?
      - can I buy a ex. HifiBerry with RCA, and still solder wires underneath the sockets? then i can still salvage the DAC if i want another project (original plan was to use a jack-plugged HifiBerry Dac+
    - case. I want a piece of ART! but that isnt easy. i think it will be one like this: [url]
      but is there any that is around 150 wide x 200 deep x 50-80 hight?
in addition i need a latching on-off plu (no problem) and software :)

Any thoughts?
Posts: 8
Joined: 16 Oct 2014, 08:46

Re: SoloPiAmp

Postby gEnEsis_AiX » 02 Nov 2014, 14:12

update! i recieved the amp two days ago, ultra fast delivery from Yuang-Jing!

were putting the pi and the amp on a board of wood, but to my anger the holes on the Pi is smaller then standard Mainboard/amp holes! WHYYYY?
Posts: 8
Joined: 16 Oct 2014, 08:46

Re: SoloPiAmp

Postby gEnEsis_AiX » 26 Apr 2015, 16:28

my case is now done, and its working with RuneAudio! But, when i am uding my amp i cant change volume using hifiberry analog out...

can someone link a volume knob that will work?
Posts: 8
Joined: 16 Oct 2014, 08:46

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