RuneAudio Forum

Hi TommyBoy,

In the mod to previous version, you have removed B1, but in the new version, FB1 is retained. Should it be removed and replaced with 0 ohm (or just short it)?
Also, C9 changed from 10 uF to 220 uF, is it used to filter noise from ground?

I did not major in electronics, so some of my mod may not be reasonable, but it doesn't hurt trying.

Below is my mod:

first, c7/c8 changed to MLCC, because someone mentioned that according to spec, these capacitors are served as charge pump and operated in high frequency, thus MLCC should be more appropriate than electrolytics

second, I removed IR receiver and associated R12, and break JP2, since we can control runeaudio with a smartphone, IR receiver/remote are not required

third, I changed C9 and connect several capacitors in parallel (0.1, 2.2, 10 uF), this seems to serve as filter after the regulator



For the power part, I followed TommyBoy, removed DC/DC, C1, C20, R8 (shorted, in the back), FB1 (shorted), and add capacitors (0.1, 2.2, 10, 220 uF in the back) in parallel. Well I have ordered the wrong 220 uF (100 VDC), so it's HUGE and seems overkill
For the 1 ohm resistor, I use a regular through-hole one instead of SMD component, but it should work as well



Overall, the result looks like this:



now I am very happy with it and enjoy the music

A very simple solution resolved this issue for me. I replaced my USB power supply with a high quality supply (in my case it was a SPLAKS 4.8 amp USB charger purchased from Amazon). This completely eliminated severe clicking on the audio. I did not need to make any mods to the circuit board. I am using a PiFi DAC+ V2.0 attached to a Raspberry Pi 2 Model B. Hope this helps others encountering the same issue!

Hey Guys, sorry for ignorance i was not able to find clear answer. Is it a good idea to separate RPI and Pifo DAC+ power? If so how can i do that which GPIOs to ise, thanks much